Day 1: Izola - San Giorgio di Nogaro
The alarm clock went on way too early (5:15) and I hear it was raining outside, so I kept firm to my bed relationship for a little longer. After careful planning, it was that time, when with already reduced items to take with you come out with a dilemma : what to leave behind since a 10 liter bag is way too small. Stack packing was a success a bit later and I was ready to hit the road - almost perfect weather if it was not for the wind. The ride went smooth and after couple stops of Italian coffee I was wired the whole way that luckily produced no injuries. Taking into account the baggage load, that changes positions due to holes on the road that produce vibrations, I had to be careful that it did not go across border. This time I was lucky to have been hosted by Denis. A true couchsurfer that fell right into the philosophy of what cs was created in the first place. Since his passion is history, I was taken to Aquilea with the full package history explanation of what this area was all about in the past. Very shame to admit, but a million times that I have passed Palmanova, there was never a time to have a look inside the city to figure out that is a gated kingdom. Palmanova, I will be back ;). As not used of taking pictures, I totally forgot to document the 2 cities. Well, it will be for next time. Since the host was so kind, I felt it was my duty to cook dinner. The firs thing that always comes to mind is Chicken curry, but I must have known...no coconut milk found and I had to improvise...it did not kill us and the taste was delightful. After all that, we watched a football match that finished without me knowing whether Croatia won or not ;). It was a well deserved sleep that I had to re do the bike adventure all over again. Thats all for the day....
Day 2: San Giorgio di Nogaro - Chioggia
Luckily, Denis woke up before me since my alarm clock was not set to ring on any day. After a must smoothie and coffee, it was time for the most annoying thing: packing and setting up the bike. If you forget to put an item in the bag, it means it has to go on top...which is a much more reliable and safe strategy. Bike set, me set, and off we go for another joy ride day. Upon a suggestion from Dennis, I took the less busy of the roads La Jesolana, that took me all the way to Punta Sabbione. There is no way I will ever forget the eye hunger that was killing me once I set foot in a Coop at Jesolo - I spent a shopping fortune, but my eyes were way more hungry that what I actually needed. After lunch and a loooong coffee break, the path resumed. It must be mentioned that even tough La Jesolana is a less busy from trucks road, one must still be careful because there is not too much room to pass and feel safe. In the end, before la Punta, the road has a side for cyclist that I do not reccommend since it is fairly bumpy and one must slow down on intersection. But we made it, and hitting stop alla Punta was a relief ;). But if you think you are done...I am telling you...its a joke. I got myself a ticket to Chioggia which is fairly expensive since one must take 3 boats and pay for the bike as well. A bit over 20 EUR did the trick...once at Lido, 2 things happened: they sait to cycle to the next boat for 10 km and considering the heat and the km already done, was not something I wanted to hear. But the day got better fast, since a cs host gave a positive reply who I met at the Bagni Miki. There is something to must see on the way: venice laguna and a marvelous wild beach at the second island. As my host is a volleyball freak, i met him at the sand courts of this long lasting sandy area of Sottomarina. Area fairly well organized and clean, making visitor feel they put their money to use to enjoy the sun and the sea. I set and I thought to play beach volley, but considering the past 100 km, it did not sound as such a great idea... so I waited for them to finish and me enjoying the endorphine bike feelings ;) What a host I must say.. he made dinner..pasta of course which leftovers I used the next day. After joking around the 2:0 score in favor of the Japanise (something that just does not fit), have waited for the game to finish...they lost in the last minute...poor guys, it looked so optimistic for them. As we tourist are normally ignorant of the hidden paths, we took a joy ride (like I have not had enough yet) around Chioggia. Once on a bike, you realize that the locals are all on bikes...well, on e-bikes and the city has a marvelous cycling path all around Chioggia. There are 2 things to do in Chioggia: take a bike and eat an ice yogurt ;) Till later....the road is calling!!! Path update later.
Day 3: Chioggia - Ravenna
Having had a great host that decided to host on terms "my alarm clock goes off at 6:30" it was perfect. I did not had to wake up the host with my smoothie maker. After a breakfast I took some time to see Chioggia and experience the wave of history from our predecessors. Each Venitian town has its own character and Chioggia is no different. After a brioche I was ready to take the road again. Before I realized or knew, I was on the most dangerous road flying toward Ravenna. Lunch were leftovers from a nice dinner prepared from Federico. Yummy snack right before the traffic works. I surely thought that was the end for me. A packed road with a meter in a side for a secure ride, and luckily, I made it to Ravenna very fast and in one piece. I came surprised that the beauty and importance of Ravenna is hidden by sand beach and Mirabilandia. A marvolous mosaic city that keeps good care of its heritage. Once arrived, I met with my next host, Ilaria, who was very friendly and full of life. Not only she directed me to great places, but involved me in dinner preparation for a putluck with her friends. It was great, but my Italian is not that great to be able to crack jokes with them. Nontheless, the 3 italian speaking days have improved it slightly. The funny things was that on the way to her friends and back, I made more traffic violations that I did in the past year, but this time, without a ticket... it seems cyclers are extremely important part of Italian life. One more thing, Ravenna is a main city close to the birth place of Mussollini, and the fascist period went to great length to add architectural crime buildings to the city. This is all for today.... new adventures are on the way.
Day 4: Ravenna - Firenze
fter a really short night and literally sleeping on a couch at super duper Ilaria's place, I knew it will be a long day passing the mountains after Forli. As recommended, I had to take the Forli route in hope I will finally found that ant of Forli, which song I kept repeating to myself. But before anything real started, my lock stopped working...and that was a serious problem. The job of the day was to do 135 km and keep the bike safe. The passage to Forli was a nightmare...sooo many cars and damaged road. Nothing is worst than holes kn the side, which with the traffic at hand, it is always a risk to bypass one. It is either die or hit a hole in hope you will not die ;). Acqoard decision, but we always take what feels safer at the moment while it happens. Some long trucks passed me and each time this happens, I hope a wave of the posterior part will not hit me. I this at that time my pulse is at 200 and I don't breath. As Forli was getting close (the sign was already there) I followed the city center direction... and guess what? Of course I ended up at the fast road hoping police will not see me...it seems extremely dangerous but such roads alway have a bypass (which I do not recommend taking if you love your life). With google maps I managed to solve the problem taking the first exit and stopping at the first coffee bar with shaking hands and legs. What a nightmare...but then there it was, an ant as I have expected her - gray hair on an e-bike (it can get any better). After a deep breath, I set back on the bike to enjoy the scenery of lovely Emiglia Romagnia...so beautiful and peaceful, the only draw back there is...is a constant uphill. But slowly you reach Tuscany, and then the real fun starts - Passo del Muragione (905m). Once up, it was the first time I felt cold..in the middle of the summer I was cold, but if fel good after all that sweating. Once up...the next 20 km were a breeze...but the closer I was getting to Firenze, the worst the traffic was getting. And I got a surprise message...signior Domenico decided to host me and I could do nothing else but to accept his offer. We met right at 19 hour the time I got into Firenze and waited on him in front of the door. I am ashamed, but after those 135 km and 1460 oh incline, the beauty of Firenze could wait for me to take a shower and take a breath. With Domenico we hit it off extremely well, laughing and rambling about different things while drinking a beer. He was kind, let me wash my stinky sweaty clothes and even prepared dinner...and guess what it was?? Yes of course pasta, that I could store for my lunch the next day. We got so into talking and I had no intention on seeing the beauty of Florence and had fallen asleep like a baby. More to come in the next post…
Day 5: Firenze - Sienna
I finally slept in. The good thing about bike day extortion lies in the fact that after, you sleep so well that not even a tank can wake you up. After a run to the shop and breakfast, we had a long coffee with Domenico and talked about different things. And, he has a smart coffee maker that makes timed coffee and as soon as you wake up, coffee is already waiting on you. Ahh...this Italian cafeteria, the best invention ever. Because google maps said there are only 64 km till siena, I decided to take it easy, after a coffee I took little time to see the city (and yes it is a tourist nightmare), so around 1130 I was set to leave. Google maps sent in ine uphill in Florence just to find out that the road was closed. Geee...I dont mind such faults, but the fact that I had to go uphill hurts. Anyhow a detour was taken and I was already set to hit the road. And what a winner. Tough it was a constant up and down trough the hills of Tuscany, but the scenery paid off for the extortion. There were 1400 m of incline in the end, but every meter was worth the effort. Cannot even say which was my favorite part...it And to top it all together...the cherry on the top of the cake - Siena. I would certainly recommend this path to anyone that loves their rides on a bike. Not much traffic, no bombs and holes, just pure enjoyment. Since I was running our of cs request and with the last one have been rejected, it was time to find a place to crash for the night. A nice affordable room right in the heart of Siena, really close to the Campo. But Siena is not just the Campo, that is one of a kind piazza, the whole city has its marvelous charm being enjoyed in every meter you walk. And when the night falls the Campo bell tower is introduced with indescribable colors. Of course there were many manh tourist, but nothing paid off for the Gorgonzola, prosciutto and tomatoes to end the evening in extortive peace. Till next time ;)
Day 6: Sienna - Belsona
hen the alarm clock went on, I was so tired packing up that I forgot a key to on line banking in the hotel room a good thing was that the smoothie maker was packed and put to use, even in the hotel room. The energy kick that this thing gives you is indescribable... it lasts till lunch time with total ease. Anyhow,once waking up, I felt the tiredness, again have been delayed in the morning routine. But after the first coffee in Siena next to the psychiatric institute gave me the strength to continue and once more I answer3d my question why this is called the ride for freedom. One miracle happened soon as well on the S2 or Francigiana road...the first sign of 215 km till Rome showed up. I guess the number reduced my energy level for the day. It was extremely hot this day and I kept stopping on small pedaled lengths. The Rome sign issue was depressing, but I kept finding strength in seeing other cyclists and walkers of the path. Lunch I had this on the small hill village and each time I hit the grocery store, my body was calling for the food that I saw. I think is amazing when the body talks to you in such a strange way...never too much and nicer to less and only nutrition full and alive foods. Step by steel in a slow pace I made it to the daily goal in Belsona. I have tried to find a couch with sending my last request, but it was a no lucky try. Right before the descent to Belsona a marvelous view opened up to the lake and the scenery of the surrounding area. But, I think God forgot about this place leaving the roads is such a bad state that I almost got killed. I must say, it shook me and was considering of taking the train the next day. There was a hole coming up that I bypassed and as soon as I did a sudden turn back, a long truck passed me by 20 cm away from my knee. It was truly scary....a small mistake by my part and a huge one from the people that leave messy and destroyed roads in such a state on beautiful landscape flourished by historical points of reference. Got into a hotel, went to the shop and relaxed for the evening calming down my adrenaline. I finally decided to call some friends from Slovenia because I finally started to believe that my Ride for freedom going all the way to Vatican is becoming reality. Only one more day and I hope my body and no accident luck will last for another day before the grand finale. Till next time.
Day 6: Belsona - Vatican (Rome)
And there it is....the last day of this marvelous adventure. I woke up full of energy, repacking the bike and other small details, after having the standard one of a kind smoothie (if it was not for it, I would have died half way each cycling day). Meaning, even tough I had to leave my flip flops at home because o the smoothie maker, it was well worth it. Taking a coffee by the lake, enjoying the early morning breeze, I was determined to not take a train or any other method of transportation beside my bike to the grand finale entry to Vatican city. The S2 and the small uphill on this bad road was not hard at all, even tough I knew I was tired from the past 6 days...a coffee break on the top of the hill its always pleasant...because you know a downhill is awaiting. And there it went, making my second mistake and ending up on the bypassing city highway...have stopped at the gas station looking my way out of it...but I was stucked for the next 3 km...have survived it (without being stopped by the police) I headed toward my lunch and a piadina. Luckily, some nice people warned me that the s2 is becoming a 4 way street, so I had to detour. Well it was just a few km for safety reason, I told myself...but then...a hill to climb and the worst road I have ever seen. I have never went so slow on a downhill in my life and as this was not as bad yet, my arms and legs were totally numb due to vibrations coming from the road. But then some 4 Ferrari passed me and I laughed, they probably felt the road even more than I had ;). So I stopped to refill my bottle for the last time before Rome...a text came asking me how much I have left and writing 30 km as a reply was already a winner...there was no more doubts, no more turning back and no more I am taking a train trashing thoughts....it was real, this whole 700 km were vanishing in days as the day vanishes into the night... so I sat back onto my lady for the final cherry on the cake...the traffic nor bumpy roads or crazy intersections were stopping me any more. The second I saw the wall of Vatican was a relief, even the packed bag started to complain and felling off telling me to stop...but I could not...the second I came to the square I asked a random tourist to take a photo of me while I raised my bike to the world. It was finally the end! And to not push my luck, I walk with the bike to my room with great pride of the achievement that I have just completed. All I got to say is...well done Tina and when the world will hit me with a hard challenge I will always laugh at it, because nothing can compare of what I have just done. So, this was it....The Ride for Freedom!